Tibet Bound

Yaki & Yeti Hotel, Kathmandu

Namaste Everyone:

Early tomorrow morning, I depart by land rover for Tibet. I have my own car and driver, which will make this an enjoyable trip.

I am so ready to begin climbing again. The 3-day rest in Kathmandu was great for my acclimatization and for the tough climb ahead. I can hardly wait to get back to the North side.

For the last few days since my arrival in Kathmandu, I have been second-guessing my decision to return to Kathmandu, rather than wait for the lines to be fixed on the South side. Should I have stayed South and tried to summit the South side first? What if the weather and route improved and an early South side summit became possible? Was I premature in my decision to flip to the North? Now, I think my instincts were correct and my decision to flip was correct. The lines have not been fixed to the summit on the South side. I heard that, just yesterday, loads were carried to the South Col, but I don’t think our camp has been established. Bad weather has been forecast for the South side, which may delay things further. I am so glad I made the decision to switch to the North. In just 3 days, I will be moving up to Advance Base Camp on the North side. Hopefully, the Chinese will have fixed the lines to the top so, weather permitting, I can keep moving steadily up to the summit. If the season extends into late May and/or early June, perhaps I can come back to the South side and complete the double. It’s all in the hands of the Lord.

During the trip to Chinese Base Camp, I will be signaling my location with my Spot tracking device. You can follow the journey on my website using the “Track Bill’s progress” link. I will also be filing regular audio reports and sending photos with my pocket computer and satellite telephone.

Sadly, Allan flies home today. Also, I spoke yesterday with Bud Allen at Base Camp. He is coming down and heading home because of an illness in the family. All my friends are leaving! I will miss them so much. However, I wish them safe travels home, and I will pray for their loved ones who are ill.

Because Allan is leaving, I will have no computer to send written reports. Most of the rest of my reports will be audio. I’ll try my best to speak slowly and clearly. If you have trouble listening to the audio, please speak up and we’ll see if the transmission can be improved. Maybe someone in the family will transcribe the reports.

See you in Tibet!



10 thoughts on “Tibet Bound

  1. Bill…great decision and you made it and that is all that counts…remember that wonderful four letter word and it is, “next!!!!” I know you will love the drive to the North side base camp again and always watch for the dogs in Tingri. Stay after it and remember this is the mental time of the climb and it is, “one day at a time.” Thinking of you here in Huntington Beach and it will be June regardless of what happens on the mountain…hang tough!!!!

    John Dahlem

  2. You may the right choice. Now you can conquer the North SIde and god willing, the South willing be wiating for you when you return. Peg and I will be thinking about you tonight at El Ranchito. Stay safe, its all about the journey!

  3. I know that you will miss your friends, Bill, but we are all here with you in spirit. Be strong. You made the right decision.



  4. Bill I think you made a key chess move in your quest to do the double double. My 78 year old mom is up here in Crowley with us and Val and my sister Diane and several others are doing the pamper peddle, its a 46 mile female costume ride from Mammoth to Bishop. Thought you would get a kick out of that. I will try to get a photo of them with a picture saying something crazing about you with the Sierras in the background!

  5. Namaste Bill. Your courage and willingness to make the move to the Tibetan side of Everest and your continual perseverance are the requisites for success. For each friend leaving the mountain (sadly), there are a thousand friends at home praying for you and sending encouragement and cosmic energy. Blessings,


  6. We have faith in your decisions, they have served you well on other trips…may your trip continue to be safe!! Praying for a safe ascent up the mountain so you may summit and head back South for the double! Can’t wait to hear more!! Big hugs from home!!!

  7. Bill, all the best on the north side. The endless calculations that you need to make – seems like you have made the only decision! My friend Grant Rawlinson from New Zealand is in Base Camp today after a second acclimatization cycle to North Col. He is doing better than last year when he suffered from HAPE. Keep an eye out for him! He is optimistic that ropes will be fixed to 8300. All the best and I am hoping for a nice weather window for you. Cheers, Bill.

Leave a Reply to Danny maddock Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *