Caruthersville, Missouri
September 27, 2019
Dear Family & Friends:
After capsizing, I invoked the emergency plan I devised long ago from my high altitude mountaineering experiences: stay calm, carefully evaluate options, pray and trust in the Lord.
Here was my dilemma. I had 1-1/2 hours of daylight left, and no idea how far it was to Caruthersville. I was soaking wet and all my gear was also wet since it had been submerged in water. If I stopped and pitched a tent, I would not be able to keep warm and could become hypothermic. Although I vowed never to paddle at night, my only option was to continue paddling downstream since this would keep me warm.
Soon, it was pitch-black dark, with no sign of Caruthersville. As towboats approached me from behind, I took shelter and let them pass, and then followed their lights as long as possible in the hope I could stay in the main channel and avoid sandbars and more dreaded wing dams. Over three hours later, there was still no sign of Caruthersville. At one point, I heard the sound of an approaching wing dam. Then, I saw I was about to pass over it. I paddled furiously to avoid the wing dam since there was no way to navigate through it in the dark. I just barely avoided passing over the wing dam sideways and capsizing again, this time in the dark.
Finally, I saw a towboat parked along the bank with its engines shut down. I pulled alongside the towboat and summoned help from the crew. A crew member approached me, and I recounted my dilemma. I said I was searching for Caruthersville and was cold. He was sympathetic to my condition, but said I could not board the towboat without permission from the Captain. Because of 9-11, towboats are heavily regulated by the Coast Guard and cannot allow anyone to board. I totally understand this requirement. After numerous calls by the Captain of the towboat, the Coast Guard allowed me to board on the basis of a “render assistance” exception. Several crew members helped me board and then pulled my canoe onto the deck of the towboat.
I was expecting the Captain and crew to be angry that I had interrupted their busy schedule. They could not have been more kind, caring and welcoming. As word spread that “a kayaker is on board,” crew members scrambled out of their beds to check this out. They offered me towels warm clothes, hot coffee and food. Honestly, I think they enjoyed the diversion and loved hearing my story. I was relieved to be told my debacle on the River was not a diversion since they had four hours of dead time while tugboats loaded more barges being pushed by the towboat.
I have always wanted to tour a towboat. These are powerful and magnificent vessels that ply the River delivering goods that are a vital part of our nation’s commerce. I was given a grand tour of the M/V Capt. Shelby House towboat. I saw the living quarters, with multiple big screen televisions featuring NFL football games, the large kitchen, the sleeping quarters, the Captain’s bedroom and the Wheelhouse, where the Captain steers the vessel. I met Captain Ken Gooding and some of his crew(Payne, Kenny & Tim) in the Wheelhouse. We exchanged wonderful stories. They were so excited to see me, hear my stories and talk about life in a towboat on the Mississippi River. I didn’t want to leave.
I was told Caruthersville is just 1/4 mile downstream. Captain Gooding called a hotel and booked a room for me. Two hours later, they lowered their zodiac into the River and lashed my canoe to this rescue vessel. I boarded the zodiac and then boarded my canoe and pushed off into the River in pitch-black darkness. Twenty minutes later, I arrived in Caruthersville and checked into the Heritage hotel.
I made some great friends on the M/V Capt. Shelby House. Captain Gooding is a Marine Corps Veteran. He runs a 4H Club Shooting program in Florida. After my River journey, I plan to present an inspirational program to his students. One of the crew members-Tim-called the hotel in Caruthersville and left a message expressing his best wishes for me and my journey. Captain Gooding sent me a nice email telling me I was an inspiration and the crew members were still talking about me the next day.
Captain Gooding and his crew gave me some wonderful souvenirs-an American Commercial Barge Line t-shirt, an ACBL flag that flys from the towboat and a headlamp to replace my headlamp, which was ruined from the capsize.
I will always be grateful to Captain Gooding and his crew for their kindness and generosity during this incident. And, I express my thanks to Captain Gooding for his service to our great country.
Here are some lessons I learned on September 26:
There are a lot of wonderful people in this world
Never pull up to a towboat. If the props start turning, you and your vessel will be sucked under
Always wear a life vest while on the River
Avoid wing dams
God is good
Bill
Some facts about towboats:The towboats have a Captain and a crew of about 15
The crews work in 4 week shifts-4 weeks on and 4 weeks off. During the weeks off, a whole new crew takes over
The twin diesel engine towboats have a combined horsepower of 7,200
The twin screw propellers are enormous and can turn large logs into toothpicks
If a crew members falls off a towboat, the chances of survival are less than 10%
On the lower Mississippi, the towboats can push over 40 barges that can be over 1,200 feet long and 200 feet wide
The area covered by the barges is longer than the flight deck of an aircraft carrier
The total are covered by the towboat and it’s barges is over 6 acres
Capt Gooding, Payne, Kenny & Tim
Departing the M/V Capt. Shelby House
Departing the M/V Capt. Shelby House
Towboat
M/V Capt. Shelby House Toeknee flag (American Commercial Barge Line)
Hey, is that log in the wing dam giving me the salute? Poor loser!
It was our pleasure to help and great to meet you! Hope the rest of your journey is much less eventful.
Thanks Kenny. I will always remember you and your crewmates and be thankful for the kindness you showed me.
Say “hi” to the Captain and crew.
Bill
Bill, if your journey were not eventful,you might be bored! It must have been very uncomfortable (scary) paddling in pitch black darkness, but good fortune was with you.
Your follow up speaking engagements will inspire your audiences to dream more, do more, learn more, and become more.
God bless,
Rick
Amazing story!
So thankful for the crew. Not a coincidence they were there….
Bill, We wondered about you as we managed the whirlpools and eddys on the Mississippi in our little catamaran. The wind and hot weather were not favorable tor travel in an unpowered craft but you persevered! Connie, Zoey and I are currently at Green Turtle Bay marina on Lake Barkley. We had a visit to Nashville last week.
Your travels are a tremendous inspiration to persons that are fortunate to come along side and have an opportunity to visit. I think of you often as we motor down the waterway expending the energy from fossil fuels. Your trip is testament to the human spirit and tenacity that makes you Bill. Lewis and Clark were young men supported by experienced frontiersmen,.. I think you could have led that expedition.
Lessons…. and an extensive education on-the-go……..Yes, indeed….God is Good….He has stationed many guardian angels around you………do they get paid overtime??? Good people do exist. May you encounter many more on this adventure. And, once again you have taken me into situations which, otherwise I would never experience……thanks…….praying for your safety.
Thank you for sharing your journey in such vivid detail. So many of your stories restore my faith in humanity. Be safe and God Bless!
Hi Bill,
Got home from a nice trek up/down Mt. Baldy and enjoyed reading your latest Mississippi chronicle. How apt is the name of the M/V Capt. Shelby House captain i.e. Gooding! Many thanks to the good captain and his crew for taking care of a tired and wet Bill. Yes, despite the occasional bad apple, there are plenty of good folks in this world. Am happy you’re meeting so many on your Mississippi adventure!
Don’t miss the Memphis BBQ downstream… and keep your life jacket on!
k;-)
What a story! and inspiration to all. You’ll lucky my man, God’s watching.
Happy paddling.
Best,
Bud
Bill, read my past recent comments on life jacket. And get a good life jacket you can paddle with and a waist SUP=Stand Up Paddleboard co2 life belt too. You are lucky to be alive. Mikebudd
Wow you are still alive. Congratulations to you. Bill, read my past recent comments on life jacket. And get a good life jacket you can paddle with and a waist SUP=Stand Up Paddleboard co2 life belt too. You are lucky to be alive. Mikebudd
Wow you are still alive. Congratulations to you. Bill, read my past recent comments on life jacket. And get a good life jacket you can paddle with and a waist SUP=Stand Up Paddleboard co2 life belt too. You are lucky to be alive. For some reason it thinks this is a duplicate comment?? Mikebudd
“Dear Bill,
Your adventures bring God into full view. HIS message of what HIS plan for man is comes through your very spirit. The telling of your life lets us all know you bring HIM to all of us. May you continue to be safe and spread HIS spirit still further.
Bill,
There have been some pretty exciting posts from you but this one takes the cake! I was anxious just reading it at my desk in ND.
Please be careful-lifevest always-YES!
I’ll be reading and learning but am hoping there is a bit less excitement here on out.
You are an inspiration Bill.
Kari and Leo
Bill I can say God has been with you all the way and still protecting you on all theses life experiences You have met some wonderful people and lots of prayers are with you
Bill
Just when you thought you had mastered the river all heck breaks loose. Thank God you were safe and there was an idle tugboat with awesome people aboard!
Mark Twain would be proud of your resourcefulness.
Bill
Your Hickman friends are thankful that God preserved you to float another day! Paddle on!
I believe Lisa once posted that your family sometimes refers to you as Mr. Magoo. With all due respect to your wonderful and amazing accomplishments, I’m beginning to understand that reference.
Safe travels the rest of the way to you!
Happy to be of service, be safe out here. Your journey is an inspiration.
Payne