Nyalam, Tibet
April 8, 2011

We are resting today in Nyalam, and tomorrow we leave for Tingri. We received our first snowfall yesterday. So, it’s beginning to feel like a mountain expedition.

We have another great team this year. There are just 4 of us. Here is the lineup:

David Liano. David is my close friend and climbing partner since 2006. David is 31 and unmarried. He lives in Mexico. I met him on the Antarctic expedition in 2006. He is an accomplished climber and has summitted Everest three times from the South side. He was with me last year on the North side. David is my kind of person: humble, quiet, unassuming, and he loves the mountains. My family loves David too. He calls me “El Capitan” because of my grey hair and the fact I was the Expedition Leader in 2009.

Doug Scarborough. Doug lives in Manhattan Beach and is 31-years old and unmarried. He has a dual American and Australian citizenship. This is his first big mountain. Doug has a great attitude and sense of humor. I really like him.

Aboul ____ (I don’t know his last name). Aboul is a 54-year old Russian climber. He summitted Everest from the South side in 2009, the same year I summitted. He is quite a character and will be fun to be with on the climb. He is a little overweight, but he is super strong, like many of the Russian climbers, and I have no doubt he will make it, weather permitting. He is married with 3 children and lives in the Cacausus region of Russian. He serves on a mountain rescue team. He speaks limited English, but we manage to communicate. He is very friendly and jovial.

Bill Burke. You know me.

El Capitan

David Liano (Mexico), Doug (from Manhattan Beach), Bill, and Aboul (from Russia).