More Uncertainty

Namaste Family & Friends:

First, I begin with good news. The Nepalese man who was blown into the crevasse by the Nuptse avalanche survived the event and is recovering in Kathmandu. The information I was given about his death was incorrect. I apologize for my prior report, which I am happy to correct in this happy update.

The news about line fixing is not so happy. Because of the paucity of snow on the mountain, there is a serious risk of rock fall on the steep sections of the mountain, beginning with the Lhotse Face. There have been many injuries to climbers from the rock falls, including broken bones as reported earlier. To mitigate this risk, the lines up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 were moved, not really to correct a mistake, but to make the move safer. This is good and is a credit to the line fixers. However, the rock fall issue remains very serious and could result in serious delays in fixing the lines above Camp 3 to the summit. What we badly need at this point is lots of snow to fall in the coming days and weeks so the rocks are held in place by the snow and ice.

The North side teams are reporting heavy winds (as usual) so the progress of line fixing is delayed there too. Bottom line: my plans for a double summit are in serious jeopardy. Please pray for snow.

Yesterday, I walked down to Gorakshep with Bud and Nick. We had lunch and then Bud and Nick headed down to Pheriche where they will rest for a few days. I climbed Kala Patar (18,200 feet), which is near Gorakshep. Because it was late in the day and the weather was sketchy, I had the whole mountain pretty much to myself. When I arrived on the summit, it started to snow pretty hard. I descended the mountain and then trekked back up to Base Camp. It snowed pretty hard last night. Yeaaaa.

I plan to rest here indefinitely and monitor the weather and line fixing situation. Once that sorts out, I will make a summit plan and advise you accordingly.



15 thoughts on “More Uncertainty

  1. Sounds like you have acclimatized well, Bill… Atop Kala Patar is a spectacular venue to see the magnificence of Nupste, Lhotse & Everest… I remember it well like yesterday… and recall that I had to dodge fist sized rocks flying off the mountainside due to hefty winds… we’ll all keep our digits crossed for you and the team… Mother Nature can be a fickle mistress but at times she kind!
    All best, k;-)

  2. Was on Kala Patthar 2 1/2 weeks ago. Wish I’d have left a message there for you! Hope the persnickety bigger mountain and weather start playing ball!

  3. I am so glad he survived! That really makes me happy!
    Sounds like a great solo climb-are you alone or does someone go with you?

  4. Bill,
    Will pray for snow! You are so amazing. I was wasted tired by the time I went to Base Camp (on my trek) to make it up to Kala Patar. The other mountain goats on my expedition all climbed it and the photos were spectacular. I am sure it was a nice motivator to see the majesty of the Khumbu and Himalaya layed out before you.
    Happy to know the gentleman didn’t pass away. Hope they get the lines fixed on the Lhotse face. Please be careful and have a safe journey towards your goal.

  5. From what you just wrote it’s obvious that what you are doing isn’t just a walk in the park.
    Good luck Bill….”you’re the man” and my hero.


  6. Snow, Snow Snow is all we ask
    so we have a summit’s glory… that Bill shall bask.

    Thinking of you up high on the hill,

    The Haly Family

  7. I am so gald you are taking precautions. I want you to be able to make your trip, but safely, and return home safely. This is exciting. Marian

  8. As Kevin Lee mentions (see above), Kala Patthar sits in an ideal location above Everest Base Camp at 18,200 ft. The views to Pumo Ri (immediately across from Kala Patthar0, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse are magnificent. Bill can walk an easy trail outside of Gorak Shep to the top of Kala Patthar–which, at 18,000 ft. has 50% of the oxygen available at sea level. The ever-changing conditions (snow) will be a blessing for the team’s ascent. Continued blessings as we approach May 5th–Buddha Day.


  9. Good to hear that your allright.
    Hope all works out in your favor.
    Will keep praying for you. Wayne & Virginia

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