August 30, 2022

Pamplona, Spain

Dear Family & Friends:

Zubiri to Pamplona

The walk from Zubiri to Pamplona on August 29 was my favorite segment of the Camino de Santiago so far. The 13 mile walk was on mostly flat or downhill terrain. I passed through several villages or hamlets, which provided great rest stops and photo opportunities. The trees and thick vegetation provided relief from the overbearing sun. I was feeling really good the entire walk and making use of my mountaineering skills, especially pressure breathing. 

Navigating the Camino is made easy by the trail markers-a yellow shell or yellow arrow.  However, the approach into Pamplona was a little complicated because the trail markers became fewer and more difficult to identify. I fumbled and bumbled my way into the Grand Hotel La Perla, which is located in the famous Plaza Del Castillo, in the medieval, walled portion of Pamplona. The Grand Hotel is especially famous as one of Hemingway’s favorite hotels. The Plaza Del Castillo is lined with fabulous bars and restaurants. 

I wisely decided to take a rest day in Pamplona on August 30. On my rest day, I visited a sporting goods store to purchase t-shirts that are appropriate for the hots days on the Camino. The store was across the street from the Bull Ring opened in 1922. The Bull Ring is known worldwide because of the running of the bulls in the San Fermin festivities every year from July 7-14. The Bull Ring is the second largest building in Spain and the fourth largest building in the world. I also walked the perimeter of the walled city of Pamplona to soak in the rich history of this wonderful city. My favorite stop was the Santa Maria la Real Cathedral built during the 14th and15th centuries. I was deeply moved by this visit. 

I’m writing this blog in the Cafe Iruna, which is next-door to the Grand Hotel. I was immediately attracted to this Cafe when I arrived in Pamplona. The food and wine are  spectacular. I found out today this was Hemingway’s favorite hangout. At the Cafe Iruna, I was introduced to Pintxos, which are bite-sized appetizers consisting of a slice of bread with a tower of ingredients piled on top. This is now my favorite food in Spain. 

The walled city of Pamplona has all of the electricity, diversity, history, uniqueness and charm of Manhattan, but much more. I wish I could stay longer, but the Camino is calling and I must go.

Tomorrow, I’m back on the Camino de Santiago on my way to Obanos.

Sharing the road

Grand Hotel La Perla

Plaza del Castillo

The Bull Ring

Running of the Bulls

That’s me on the ground

Cafe Iruna

Pintxos

Santa Maria Real Cathedral

Gateway of France-Pamplona’s sole remaining gateway of the original six