Pazo de Laia, Spain (near Pales del Rei), September 30, 2022
Dear Family & Friends:
I begin by saluting Papa’s Pilgrims for their amazing performance on the Camino de Santiago. They have been with me since Astorga and have completed over 106 miles. Some of these miles and days have been long and difficult. Not a word of complaint from my girls, just appreciation for the time together and the wonderful sites, scenes and history. It is hard to believe we are down to our last 42 miles.
Sarria to Portomarin, September 29, 2022 (13.7 miles)
This was a delightful day capped by a stay at a wonderful 500-year old farmhouse about 10 miles outside of Portomarin. The day started with rain, which was off and on as a drizzle for several hours. Not a problem for your intrepid Pilgrims since we put on our ponchos and forged ahead. The scenery was beautiful, as usual.
Lisa booked all of our rooms from Astorga to Santiago. She did a great job. She could not book a room in Portomarin, so she chose an accommodation about 10 miles outside of Portomarin. The venue was a fabulous 500-year old restored farmhouse. A double rainbow greeted our arrival, which was a good sign. We had the whole farmhouse to ourselves. The owner provided us home-made meals of cream of vegetable soup, chicken, baked loin with sauce, after dinner drinks and ice cream.
Portomarin to Palas de Rei, September 30, 2022 (12.5 miles)
In the morning, a cab took us to a village just outside of Portomarin. It was a relatively short day, with most of the walking on trails that bordered less traveled highways. The views were great, but not equal to past segments of the Camino. The highlight of the day was our accommodation at the end of the day. Lisa booked us at Pazo de Laia, about two miles outside our destination village of Palas del Rei. Pazo de Laia is a former dairy cattle ranch, which is over 350 years old. It was formerly owned by Count Ulloa and his Countess. Six years ago Gustavo from Venezuela bought the ranch and completely renovated it as a hostal. This venue is stunningly beautiful. A non-functioning church is attached to the hostal, and I can access the church from my second floor room. The ground floor of the hostal has a sitting room, exercise room and theatre room, where we could watch English speaking movies. The second floor has beautiful, enormous, multi-colored bedrooms, a sitting room and bar. Once again, we have the whole facility to ourselves. I feel like I am living a dream.
Another homemade dinner capped the night.
Tomorrow, we walk to Ribadiso da Biaxo.
Miles walked: 441.3
Miles remaining: 42.2
Sarria to Portomarin
Potomarin to Pazo de Laia
Can’t wait to the final steps, the last brass shell and swinging incense in the church!
Wow Bill you are closing in fast. Way to go Lisa on the accommodations!
I am driving Cathy nuts about moving here, it is amazing. The little place we have in SDC has a backyard about 150 feet deep and we are a two minute walk from the Cathedral.
BTW I trust the girls are carry most of your stuff!!! They have youth!
Great pictures! Love the report.
We all need a Lisa to find lodging like that out in the unknown. What a blessing to have your family around you to share this most special trip together. Again, thank you Bill for taking me along
Lisa has helped in providing some memorable accommodations out of the ordinary—well done. Two or three days in Santiago would be worthwhile—so much to see. There is a farmer’s market, one or two days each week, in Santiago that you would enjoy before pushing on to Muxia.
Hiking blessings,
Rick